How To Build An Indoor/Outdoor Climate Controlled Doghouse -

Details for How To Build An Indoor/Outdoor Climate Controlled Doghouse

ID:	1551
Author:	cbyrne007
Title:	How To Build An Indoor/Outdoor Climate Controlled Doghouse
Article:	This doghouse is a box that is open at both ends which hangs via two U-frames bolted to the floor joists in your basement ceiling. One end has a hinged screen door; the other end is pressed and sealed against an opening to the outside that has a draft-reducing flap or curtains. This hanging design not only saves on your floor space, but the screened door also allows the temperature of your doghouse to be the same as the temperature of your basement, hence it is "climate-controlled". If you have a heated or finished basement, it will be an even warmer escape for the animal in the winter. In summer, most basements are cooler than outdoors without needing air conditioning. If you'd rather not put it in the ceiling, you can put it on the floor and make an opening in your basement wall just large enough to install a standard dog door, such as the magnetic-collar version that would cut down on unwanted critters moving in. However, there are some things you will need to consider before you start building. The size of the doghouse itself is limited only by the size of the dog. It can be small and cat-sized; or large enough for one large dog, or for several small ones. The size of the window opening is also limited by the size of the dog. Can the dog get through the existing window? If the dog cannot fit through the window, you may need to put in a new window. If you have no window at all, or the window is in an inconvenient area, see the article on "How to bring daylight into a basement" for tips on how to create a new window or create an opening in your basement wall large enough to install a standard dog door. Is the window already at ground level or below it in a window well? Do you need to build a small set of steps up to the window or can you add a simple ramp for your pet? You might want to consider removing the stairs or ramp at a later date, once your pet no longer needs the initial assistance, so that burglars and kids don't realize they can get into your house through an open window. Is your basement ceiling finished or unfinished? This design is a lot easier to build if you have open floor joists in an unfinished basement, but it can be attached to a finished one. If your basement ceiling is finished, can you remove a panel from the ceiling or cut a hole in it to get to the joists to hang the box? If have a really large dog or several large dogs that have a combined weight of over 100 lbs, you may want to give the box additional support by bolting the ceiling of the box into a joist that is not otherwise supporting the weight of the box in order to distribute the weight among three or more joists. If the box is REALLY large, you can add 4"x4" legs to the corners to help support the load. Or you can put in on the floor instead if you are uncomfortable with the weight risk. DISCLAIMER: Please remember that it is your responsibility to determine the weight limits that your particular floor joists can support, including any furniture or appliances that may be above your doghouse; the doghouse itself; and the weight of your dogs. For example, hanging a doghouse for 3 Saint Bernards, or all 30 neighborhood stray cats, under the joists supporting your king-size waterbed in the bedroom above it is definitely NOT a good idea. You will need to determine your own dimensions based on the pet(s) you are building the doghouse for so you will want to measure your dog in the following positions to determine the floor dimensions. The floor should be large enough for the dog to lie down curled up (for winter use), stretched out from outstretched paws to rear, (sphinx position) or flat on his side (to cool himself in summer). This means that a long legged retriever will need a box much larger than a short-legged corgi or cocker spaniel will. The height should be tall enough for your tallest dog to stand in comfortably. Basic construction of this simple doghouse is as follows. Build a basic box from 1/2" plywood that is open on both ends. After this box "tube" has been built, build two 3-sided frames from 2"x4" material that are slightly wider than the dimensions of the box, with the length of the 2 "U" arms at least 6-8 inches taller than the box is. These U-frames will be bolted into the joists with heavy-duty bolts and the box is hung by sliding it into these two hanging "U" frames. On one end of the box make a simple framed screened door with hinges on the top. It can be small gauge chicken or hog wire (sandwiched between 2 frames); or fine door or window screen stapled to a single frame. This screening is essential to the climate-controlled design and allows for ventilation. It also allows you to see if strange dogs, cats and critters like raccoons have discovered your hideaway before you unlatch the door. Attach a locking mechanism to the door so that it latches underneath the box so that you can reach up and control when the dog can come inside, and to keep unwanted critters from entering the house without your knowledge. The hinge on top makes it easy for the dog to push open the unlatched door and jump out of the box, or perhaps follow a ramp down to a safer jumping level. If this is being built for a cat, a cat tree under the door can be a useful and decorative item. The door also allows for ease of cleaning the box; or for changing or fumigating bedding while on a step ladder. Just screw an eye into a ceiling joist and a hook on the door to hold the door open as needed. On the window end, cut two pieces of heavy fabric just slightly larger than the width of the opening. Stitch rod pockets into both top and bottom and thread them onto 1" dowels. Attach the dowels to the box, with the fabric curtains, back-to-back, with both covering the opening. Secure one side of one curtain to the left of side of the box, and the other to the right side of the box. Using large rubber bands or those cut from an inner tube; have the curtain that is secured on the right hand side of the box pulled toward the top left to keep the curtain closed, and vice versa with the other curtain, using the top right corner. When the dog pushes on these curtains from either direction, the curtains will part to let him through, and then snap back in place to help keep too much cold or hot air from coming into the house. If you are doing this for a cat, you can use looser rubber bands because cats are not as strong. If you are using a dog door, omit the curtains completely. After both ends of the box have been completed, door side and curtain side, slide the box into the "U" frames hanging from the ceiling joists and secure it to the frames so it does not move. Or secure the box against the dog door on the floor. In either case, seal it around the window/dog door edges however you wish. Introduce your pet to the doghouse from the screened door on the inside of the house. He'll soon figure out that there is a way to go outside...and from that experience, will eventually figure out how to come back in. About the author of this article: mark dunne is a successful freelance writer providing advice on your a number of topics like concrete articles and drywall plaster if you have time drop by his site for some tips and information. http://www.diystuff.com
Category:	Home: Home-Improvement
Date:	December 06, 2008 04:03:01 AM

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